The apparel industry is navigating a critical moment, squeezed by intensifying global regulation, complex trade environments and a growing demand from consumers for absolute transparency. For years, the sector has relied on traditional, document-based traceability — a system Rupert Hodges, chief commercial officer at forensic origin verification firm Oritain, characterizes as a “verification crisis” that’s prone to fraud and offers little true protection.
In this exclusive Q&A, Hodges outlines why paper trails are no longer enough, detailing how new regulations such as the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) are shifting the burden of proof onto brands and demanding scientific evidence. He explains how Oritain’s “Origin Fingerprint” technology works at a molecular level to provide legally defensible proof of origin, and shares how the industry can streamline compliance and transform scientific traceability from a reactive compliance cost into a proactive, strategic advantage for brand resilience and consumer trust.
HGI: How would you characterize the apparel industry’s traceability efforts to date?
Rupert Hodges: The apparel industry has long grappled with a verification crisis, relying heavily on document-based checks that are inherently flawed. Paper trails can be easily falsified, offering little protection for product authenticity, people or the planet. Many brands lack visibility beyond their tier-one suppliers, leaving significant blind spots in their supply chains.
Our recent market research revealed that 84 percent of U.S. companies plan to increase investment in traceability, a promising sign of progress. Yet, despite these intentions, the gap between policy requirements and practice remains evident. This disconnect underscores the urgent need for forensic origin verification that delivers brands and consumers absolute confidence in garment manufacturing.
HGI: Why do you think tools like yours haven’t been more widely adopted?
RH: For any global business, changing deeply embedded supply chain systems can feel like a significant undertaking. There are misconceptions that need to be addressed for many leaders who are comfortable with the way they’ve always operated.
Regulation has also been a key driver in influencing behavior change. Regulations such as UFLPA and EUTR [European Union Timber Regulation], and the upcoming EUDR [European Deforestation Regulations] and CSDDD [Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive] are amongst other global regulation that are playing a critical role in the adoption of science backed tools, like Oritain’s forensic verification.
Importantly, meaningful change within supply chains takes time, which is why our new membership program is designed to create a network of origin-verified buyers and suppliers committed to traceability. The result is a deeper, faster path to origin verification; one that embeds science directly into supply chains and raises the bar for responsible sourcing. This makes it far easier to get started and immediately find trusted partners, which lowers that barrier to adoption.
HGI: How has the new trade environment put more emphasis on traceability?
RH: The trade environment has not only impacted how governments and brands operate, it has also opened the eyes of many consumers. We’re seeing a clear rise in consumer consciousness, where shoppers are increasingly questioning the origin of the materials in their goods. For example, we recently conducted a customer sentiment study that found that for clothing and textiles, 57 percent of consumers rate product origin as an important or extremely important factor in their purchasing decision. This shift is making traceability more central to trade than ever before.
As for enforcement, we’re seeing governments adopt traceability solutions and science for their own enforcement. For instance, Oritain was awarded a sole provider contract by the UK’s Office for Product Safety and Standards for timber testing. We also work with U.S. Customs and Border Protection and Department for Homeland Security. These engagements underscore the credibility and trust in Oritain’s science, signaling to the industry that reliance on anything but proof will not suffice.
HGI: New rules of origin are part of the new tariff policy and trade agreements. Though few details have been released, what does this mean for the apparel industry?
RH: It means the standard of proof is about to be raised significantly and brands will have to move beyond claims to provide verifiable, scientific evidence of those claims.
Oritain analyzes products and materials at a molecular level, creating an “Origin Fingerprint” based on specific geographical origin that’s resistant to tampering and can be used to identify fraudulent origin claims, and possible exposure to labor issues in high-risk regions, and many other origin related claims.
HGI: Experts in the industry are expecting the rules of origin to function like UFLPA.
For brands, what has been the most challenging part of complying with UFLPA regulations?
RH: A significant challenge with a regulation like the UFLPA is how it fundamentally shifts the burden of proof. The law’s “rebuttable presumption” provision means that if the government suspects that an imported product has a connection to banned areas or banned entities, those goods are presumed non-compliant from the start. Brands manufacturers and importers are required to provide clear and convincing evidence to prove their supply chains are clean. This is a high burden and the industry views this as a high enforcement risk.
This becomes exponentially harder when raw materials and shipments move between multiple geographies before reaching their final destinations — a common practice in modern supply chains. Materials from high-risk regions are often shipped to another country for processing, where they are often blended with other inputs before being exported.
The real hurdle for brands is producing evidence that traces every component back to its origin, even through these complex and fragmented routes. This is where traditional, document-based traceability systems fall short, as they cannot provide the hard, scientific proof needed to withstand intense regulatory scrutiny.
HGI: From what we’ve seen of the ESG legislation coming out of the EU, what role is traceability going to play in compliance?
RH: New EU legislation, like the EUDR, requires companies to substantiate their ESG claims with credible proof. In timber products this regulation has been in place since 2016 with EUTR, and so many companies are already aware of it despite EUDR raising the bar. Traceability is going to be at the core of environmental and social compliance moving forward in Europe.
Oritain has focused on building the databases for deforestation-affected commodities, ensuring we are prepared to support global customers as enforcement approaches and begins. To meet this challenge, we have just announced a significant expansion of our scientific network with the acquisition of three new specialist labs across Europe in Germany, France and Austria.
This investment directly increases our testing capacity and speed, with increased focus on EUDR-affected commodities; leather and timber. It means our Origin Fingerprint technology is more ready than ever to give brands confidence in their ESG efforts. Whether used to validate the origin of leather or timber, ensure cotton isn’t coming from high-risk regions or identify the exposure to possible labor issues at point of Origin, our science and technology is giving brands the tools they need to achieve real validation and transparency.
HGI: Suppliers and factories say they’re drowning in data and they’re overwhelmed with compliance demands. How does Oritain help streamline operations?
RH: Instead of being overwhelmed with data, our partners get clear, actionable intelligence. The significant value we bring is ground truthing the origin of the raw materials in products that validate the other data elements they have worked hard to collect. Without this validation, much of that data has low value, and the client can feel swamped. Additionally, we have invested heavily in our digital product portal so clients see all their results on our platform in real time, and we have implemented machine learning pipeline, making the process quicker more efficient and scalable.
Our new membership program is also designed to make things easier for our customers. We’re creating a network of trusted origin-verified buyers and suppliers who are committed to transparency. By working together, this network makes compliance easier. A verified supplier can prove their status to a whole network of buyers, not just one at a time. And a buyer can confidently source from a verified supplier. It turns compliance from a repetitive burden into a shared, collaborative advantage.
HGI: For executives that recognize they need traceability, how do you suggest they go about assessing their needs and vetting potential partners?
RH: I would suggest beginning with mapping out your supply chain to address visibility gaps beyond tier-one suppliers and identify the level of assurance you need: operational, regulatory or reputational. Alongside this we would recommend an initial testing program to evaluate the risk of unwanted product in the supply chain, and assess their products against the supporting claims of suppliers.
When vetting partners, look for science-backed solutions rather than paper-based systems. Ask if their methodology analyzes the physical product itself. Ensure their evidence is legally defensible and trusted by regulators. Global scale matters too — partners should have a robust network of labs and a significantly large and reliable proprietary database to support accurate verification. Finally, confirm independence; unbiased, third-party science is critical for integrity and credibility.
HGI: Oritain works across a lot of different industries, how do some others leverage traceability? What can apparel learn?
RH: When I started at Oritain 10 years ago, our business was primarily focused on food industries — dairy, meat and more — to provide a solution to a handful of food safety crises that had occurred across the globe. Seeing market gaps across a variety of verticals, we’ve since expanded well beyond the food industry. Most recently we announced our expansion into timber, helping global manufacturers identify timber from illegally logged origins to combat deforestation. Cotton has become our largest vertical, with partners working in apparel, home goods and other sectors around the world. Also on the textile front, we recently entered into leather, working with one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands as early adopters with other sectors like luxury automotive also showing significant interest.
The key takeaway for the apparel industry is that scientific traceability is a strategic asset for brand protection, not merely a regulatory compliance task. Other industries have already learned that this level of verification is essential for building consumer trust and creating a durable competitive advantage. The most successful companies, regardless of sector, view this as a critical investment in their brand’s long-term reputation and resilience, rather than as a simple cost.
