Men’s wear is having a moment right now as it rides a wave of consumers dressing up more — whether to go out to dine or be entertained, or for commuting to work more frequently due to return-to-work mandates. For retailers and brands keying into these post-pandemic changes in consumer behavior, the results are higher sales and profits.
Tony Spring, CEO of Macy’s, shared category performance during the retailer’s Q2 call, which resulted in sales and profits that beat Wall Street expectations. Apparel was a star of the show — including tailored men’s wear.
“Comparable sales of women’s contemporary and career as well as men’s tailored clothing outperformed [during the quarter],” Spring told analysts, also noting that watches, textiles and other categories “continued to experience strong demand. The success of these categories illustrates the breadth of product and price points that we offer and our ability to cater to customers’ evolving lifestyle needs.”
For men’s wear in particular, evolving lifestyle needs have triggered a shift where tailored refinement meets a demand for comfort, performance and functionality.
Dressing Sharper Post-Pandemic
Bjorn Bengtsson, chief product officer at UNTUCKit, told HGI \ the consumer “is looking to transition out of ‘pandemic dressing’ (the performance market is becoming heavily saturated) and seems to prefer a bit more style and casual elegance. Shirts are still an important part of that wardrobe as it is the substitute for tees and sweatshirts in a work environment.”
For the fall season, fashion editors are expecting more flourishes overall and greater use of accessories. Fashion editor and influencer Autum Love said, “This season, men are shifting away from boxy and oversized jeans and tees toward a more refined look. One standout trend is the return of silk scarves and even knit cardigans styled around the neckline. It’s a subtle shift but it makes everyday men’s wear feel a bit sharper.”
This season also marks a transition in customer preferences for silhouettes, noted Matt Jefferson, style consultant at Tweeds, the custom tailored suits retailer.
“For the fall, the neo-classical drape cut suit is popular, with fully cut trouser legs and relaxed jacket cuts replacing the skinny suit,” Jefferson said. “However, clients still ask for suits to be tailored to their body. While relaxed fits are not as common, they may become more prevalent as Gen-Z experiments with silhouettes and pushes the envelope for tasteful edginess.”
Versatility and Functionality
From a materials innovation perspective, Malvina Hoxha, U.S. marketing director at Hyosung TNC, said men’s and women’s apparel continues to see rising demand for responsible synthetics that also perform well. In response, the company offers Regen Bio and Regen Spandex, Nylon and Polyester — materials that are versatile and comfortable.
“Across the industry, we do see there being a continued need for comfort and flexibility being championed by customers regardless of the product category; this overarching trend is not going away,” Hoxha said. “Furthermore, commuter apparel has become an increasing product category across [apparel] by providing a mix of traditional natural fibers, with blends of stretch and high cooling nylon applications. We see this happening across the men’s wear category more so than women’s wear.”
Kelly Cooper, chief product officer at apparel brand Rhone, said in tailored men’s wear, “we’re seeing a shift toward classics with a modern twist. Rhone is naturally positioned for this moment, as our aesthetic has always leaned tailored but reimagined through performance-driven fabrics. This gives our customer the ability to look sharp while moving effortlessly through his day.”
Cooper said Rhone’s value proposition is anchored by comfort and handfeel. She said the brand’s customer comes to Rhone “for fabrics that are soft to the touch, lightweight and built to move with him.”
“Bestsellers like the Commuter Shirt and Pant showcase this balance, delivering tailored style through premium performance fabrics that feel unexpectedly comfortable while keeping up with the demands of his day,” Cooper said.
Men’s Wear, Naturally
On the natural fiber front, comfort is also in the spotlight. Employing high-quality fibers is essential for tailored men’s wear — and its use by top brands is the proof in the pudding. Buxton Midyette, vice president of marketing and promotions at Supima, said the cotton producer works with leading heritage brands such as Brooks Brothers and Sunspel as well as newer entrants such as Proper Cloth and Rodd & Gunn.
“Whatever their approach, all of them have embraced innovation to give their customers classic looks that still feel modern and fresh,” Midyette said, noting that while traditional suits have been declining, “there has been a surge in ‘casual suits’ which are softened and less structured. These suits are less formal and can be worn anytime and not just for special occasions.”
Midyette said comfort is top of mind for shoppers with natural fibers such as cotton playing an important role. He said Supima’s natural softness “plays perfectly into comfort trends and its renowned lasting retention of color provides the richness for this trend which is all about ‘quiet luxury.’”
Return to Office: Dressy, But Understated
In this post-pandemic period, employers are reeling in employees and increasingly mandating more time in the office. According to research from Archie, 70 percent of companies have in place formal return-to-office (RTO) policies that require some in-office time. According to the data, three days per week is the most common RTO requirement. The research also found that
93 percent of business leaders polled feel employees should be in the office “at least part of the week.”
As a result, retailers and apparel brands have seen an uptick in shoppers looking to refresh their closets. “Back-to-office does impact the market,” Jefferson said, adding that his “clients want to present themselves professionally when they return to the office.”
“There’s no question that return-to-office plays a role in the resurgence of our customer looking to update his wardrobe,” Cooper noted, adding versatility is a factor as Rhone shoppers update their wardrobes.
Cooper said the brand’s offerings allow consumers to move seamlessly from workout to workday and beyond. “Whether it’s a more relaxed office environment, a traditional workplace or a casual social occasion, our customer is looking for clothing that feels polished without being overdone,” she said.
Cooper said Rhone spends a lot of time distilling product feedback from customers and holding focus groups to garner insights. She said the message is clear: “Keep doing what we do best. That means creating understated styles in premium performance fabrics that are easy-care, durable and timeless. For him, it’s less about ‘dressing up’ in the old sense and more about looking pulled together while still feeling comfortable and confident.”
The Rise of Premium Fabrics and Textures
RTO and the demand for “commuter wear” is also putting a spotlight on higher-end fabrics. Cooper said shoppers are prioritizing fabrics that offer a combination of texture, comfort and performance. “Texture has become especially important, specifically with tops and ‘sets’ as we move into fall,” Cooper explained. “Seersuckers, piqués, and now our Performance Waffle and Resolve Piqué Sweaters are resonating strongly because they bring dimension without sacrificing versatility.”
Bengtsson said soft fabrics “are still dominating and performance is moving from pure man-made fibers to cotton blends that combine sophistication with performance aspects.”
Jefferson said Tweeds’ most popular fabrics come from Italy and England, which are renowned for their quality and craftsmanship. “However, each region faces challenges in making custom suits for U.S. clients,” he explained. “Italians go on a summer hiatus, causing delays or outages. English mills have limited production runs on exclusive fabrics that sell out quickly. Product delays, outages and discontinuations are common in the custom clothing business.”
Challenges and Opportunities in Tailored Men’s Wear
The tailored men’s wear market, while experiencing success, is no cakewalk. Particularly challenging is the custom apparel segment. It is literally a hands-on business that requires patience, active listening of customers and exceptional attention to detail.
“Good things come to those who wait,” Jefferson said. “Custom clothing is time-consuming and requires patience, creating a gap between prospective clients who need their clothing faster and our ability to craft it. Consumer culture expects instant results, but we have expedited order methods. My most satisfied clients are patient and patient with our process.”
Jefferson said from a broader market perspective, consolidation and store closures is affecting the tailored men’s wear segment. “Brands like Men’s Warehouse are declining, while those in the made-to-measure segment, like Suit Supply and Bonobos, are rising,” he noted. “Americans are increasingly opting for custom clothing, but some prefer lower-cost, customizable options. Made-to-measure can also be faster, as clients may choose a company that delivers faster. Fully custom is superior, but it requires an investment of time and money.”
When asked about the growth opportunities for custom men’s wear, Jefferson said North America is prime. “Labor costs are not unique to our industry,” he said, noting that is the same reason iPhones aren’t made in America. However, he said, “As a retail professional, I believe there’s an opportunity for a fledgling company to locally supply Italian and English fabrics from renowned mills.”
But that comes with a huge challenge: sewing premium fabric into suits without leaving the U.S. “I can’t think of any company (except for occasional tailors) that sews fully custom or bespoke suiting state-side at scale,” he added.
