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How to Unstick Sustainability Innovation

The industry is working toward circularity but to realize its potential, apparel must find a way to fast track material innovation, traceability, resale and recycling.
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Photo credit: Jose Antonio Gallego Vazquez

Key Insights

  • Regulatory pressures, consumer demand and ESG priorities are pushing brands toward circular models but fast fashion, luxury brands, and small companies struggle with incentives, infrastructure, and scaling.

  • Next-gen materials and AI-powered traceability platforms require realistic supply chain integration to succeed.

  • For resale and rental models to scale, everyday usability, infrastructure and consumer incentives must improve across the board.

The fashion world is evolving faster than ever, propelled by growing consumer demand, regulatory pressures and the need for meaningful environmental and social governance (ESG) practices. From AI-driven traceability platforms to next-gen materials crafted from citrus peels and hemp, the industry is witnessing innovation rippling through its seams. But experts agree that barriers — from fast fashion’s resistance to systemic circularity to technical recycling challenges — still loom large.

And time is running out.

“We’re seeing a generation of customers who don’t just want sustainability claims — they want proof,” Disney Petit, founder and CEO of LiquiDonate, a sustainable social impact software company. “The new Digital Product Passport rules in the EU, for example, will require brands to track and share everything about a product — from how it was made to how it can be recycled or reused. That level of transparency is forcing companies to prioritize circularity from the ground up.”

As these conversations become more mainstream, consumers have become more aware—and vocal. “That kind of visibility is fueling real innovation — whether in resale platforms, durable designs or brand-owned recycling systems.”

“For [next-gen material] innovations to succeed, we must design for a circular end-of-life from the beginning and align new materials with realistic supply chain integration.”

—Adam Freedgood, Third Partners


Shifting from Buzzwords to Action

Sustainability innovation is now imperative across every sector, but it requires strategy. “Sustainable fashion is dominated by buzzwords like ‘circularity,’ ‘zero waste’ and ‘regenerative,’ but measurable business success starts with identifying which ESG issues matter most,” said Adam Freedgood, principal and client director at Third Partners. Freedgood points to rental subscription services that are showing leadership, with investments in physical infrastructure and governance systems crucial to scaling environmentally preferred practices.

However, the optimism isn’t evenly distributed across the apparel industry. “Fast fashion and low-margin private label manufacturers still lag the most,” said Aditi Varma, sustainability operations lead at Philip Morris International, and formerly of Ecowiser. “There’s a lack of incentive and infrastructure to invest in traceability, and many still treat sustainability as a marketing afterthought rather than a core business strategy.”

Beyond fast fashion, luxury brands face challenges, particularly balancing exclusivity while embracing resale. Petit describes the tension faced by brands with slow-moving stock or floor models that lack reuse frameworks. “Luxury often defaults to liquidations, but initiatives like circular gifting or accessible resale platforms could shift their ESG outcomes — and their reputations.”

The Cutting Edge of ESG: Materials and Platforms

The evolution of materials and tools is proving pivotal. Hemp blends, banana fibers, orange-peel silk and microbial dyes are no longer niche ideas, according to Varma. “We’re starting to see scalability and customer acceptance of next-gen materials — and brands embedding these into mainstream product lines, not just capsules, will define the future.” Similarly, Freedgood told HGI he sees promise in bio-based textiles created for disassembly and recycling — though with one key caveat. “For these innovations to succeed, we must design for a circular end-of-life from the beginning and align new materials with realistic supply chain integration.”

The rise of AI-driven platforms is another game-changer for sustainability. Varma points to technologies such as TrusTrace, which facilitate traceability at scale. “Collaborative traceability platforms are allowing SMEs — not just large players — to become ESG compliant, which is critical for leveling the playing field and accelerating industry standards.”

However, not all innovations gain traction equally. “Many smaller companies lack the resources and knowledge to bridge supply chain transparency gaps. Without systems, frameworks, or materiality assessments, circularity remains an uphill climb,” Freedgood said. Yet tools like AI-driven scoring systems give brands an affordable way to invest in compliance and sustainable processes.

Barriers to Circularity

Despite the flood of innovations, some ESG initiatives are experiencing bottlenecks. Scaling recycling remains one of the most notable hurdles. “Textile-to-textile recycling is still nascent,” explained Varma. “Sorting and mixed fiber separation remain technical challenges, and most brands still lack end-of-life planning, relying instead on consumers to dispose responsibly.” One alternative, Petit noted, is developing hyper-local recycling networks. “Brands and retailers are still uncomfortable paying for these services, even though regional networks reduce costs, carbon footprints and logistical inefficiencies.”

Infrastructure woes don’t end with recycling. Freedgood emphasizes the need for regional and cross-sector collaboration for scaling low-carbon technologies. “Even when recycling options exist, creating consistency and affordability across regions remains a challenge.”

Reshaping Consumption

At the forefront of circularity is resale — a booming market that experts see as a major driver of sustainability across the global apparel industry. Petit highlights its cultural shift, where brands launch apps that integrate secondhand into their e-commerce strategy. “The next generation of resale platforms will focus on incentivizing returns with store credits, improving quality assurance and streamlining logistics for everyday consumers.”

Brands such as Patagonia and Eileen Fisher are leading examples. “They manage their own circular ecosystems through resale programs that build loyalty while reducing waste,” said Varma. Freedgood suggests this shift won’t just benefit the planet but will also unlock major revenue streams. “When resale becomes normalized in mainstream shopping — not just among niche consumers — it will transform the value chain at scale.”

Amrita Bhasin, CEO at retail AI company Sotira, agreed. “Scaling the secondhand market globally is showing incredible promise, especially as brands reevaluate practices like dumping and discarding. More retailers are recognizing how much life is left in products and are monetizing overstock or unsold inventory as part of a scalable circular process.”

Resale is not alone in reshaping consumption; rental services are also making strides. Both Freedgood and Varma see rentals growing in the area of occasion-specific micro-rentals for weddings, maternity, and travel gear. “For scale, however, rentals need to reach everyday consumers — not just fashion-forward users,” explained Varma. Logistics, fit technology and inventory friction remain hurdles, but Freedgood predicts clarity on tradeoffs within five years. “As brands develop consensus on when rental is environmentally preferable to traditional ownership — accounting for style categories, durability and supply chain adaptations — it’s likely we’ll see major players flex rental as a growth driver.”

What Lies Ahead

The road to full ESG compliance is wide-ranging. “For forward-thinking brands, compliance could be achieved in 2 to 3 years; for others, especially SMEs, the gap is far more significant,” Varma said adding that affordable compliance tools and education platforms will determine how quickly smaller businesses catch up.

Petit added that brands who embrace sustainability “not as a trend, but as a holistic product, packaging and lifecycle strategy, will thrive. Metrics like that are what consumers — and investors — are watching closely.”

And while the momentum may be slow in some segments, experts agree that there’s no turning back. As Bhasin noted, “Circularity is no longer just an ideal; it’s shaping the reality of the apparel industry every day. From citrus-peel materials to consumer-ready resale platforms, the innovations are already transforming global markets — we just need to fast track adoption.”

Want to add your voice to the conversation? Email caletha@hgi.io with story tips or insights.

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